![]() ![]() The boat comes fitted with a 22kW charger for overnight recharging from a standard marina shorepower cable. In normal use, when much of the time you’ll be pottering in and out of harbour interspersed with a couple of faster hops along the coast to a favourite beach or anchorage, that should be enough for a typical day’s outing. Of course at this speed, it will chomp through the two 63kWh Kreisel batteries at a rather alarming rate, but at a more modest (but still rapid) 26 knots it’s claimed to give a range of 25nm – much the same as most bespoke electric boats.įor context, we took it out for about 40 minutes of pretty hard use, including a number of flat-out acceleration and max speed runs and returned to harbour with 63% battery charge remaining. The short answer is astonishingly well.ĭespite a 450kg weight penalty over a fully fuelled petrol boat, and five passengers, we still recorded a top speed of over 50 knots – vastly quicker than any other electric boat we’ve tested and not far off the world speed record for a production electric boat of 57.7 knots (held by a Goldfish X9 powered by a 400hp Evoy inboard). So be nice! I'm doing my best-ish.Having tested a number of other electric boats, including the foiling Candela C-8, X-Shore Eelex 8000 and Vita Lion, we were intrigued to see how well a production-built boat like the Axopar 25 adapted to battery power. I'm under equipped in the means of a proper boat building workshop and have limited resources. I'm also a boat captain and a bartender and this is my back burner project. There's not alot of skilled boat builders in the virgin islands as opposed to my home state in Maine. I would love to hear any feed back from you guys. Now I am staring at these wondering the best way to place these boards and scribe them to get the most out of each plank and match grains and also have it be sturdy. I already cut ply wood templates for the entire circumference of the hull. So I'm faced with a puzzling puzzle on how to best cut these boards to encompass this oval shaped vessel. Ready for primer and whatever we choose for a finish coat. I did this using PvC board backed by insulation and 5200 followed by fiberglass and 3 coats of west system epoxy using a light mixture of 407 fairing filler and a dash of 406 colloidal silica. I replaced all the of the original teak that served as a veneer making it look like a wooden boat. So it's been a while but I'm still working in this old girl. But this transom extension is something out of my wheelhouse.Īll doubts and speculations are welcome bouys! All things I know I can do since I spent 4 years at Hinckley as a finish carpenter. I also have to make a new head, v birth, and kitchenette. I still have so much work on the new decks, toe rails, exterior teak that wraps the top of hull(just for looks). We have the 2 Yanmar inboards all disconnected and scheduled to be pulled out this Saturday. ![]() Our thought process leading up to O/B was basically if we had to spend a pretty penny on new inboards why not go for more horsepower with outboards. I'm curious to see if we could get new replacements from the link you provided. He basically said our yanmars were out of date and impossible to find in our location. I'll include a copy of the email we received from the yanmar distributor. I'll include a picture of one that's not in the state of repair she's in right now. Click to expand.Thanks for welcoming me to the forum! ![]()
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